The COLIPA in vitro UVA method: a standard and reproducible measure of sunscreen UVA protection.

There is a continuing need to measure and communicate reliably the UVA protection offered by commercial sunscreens. To that end, the COLIPA (European Cosmetics Trade Association) 'In Vitro Sun Protection Methods' group has developed a new in vitro method for measuring UVA protection in a standardized, reproducible manner. The method is based on in vitro UV substrate spectrophotometry and convolution of resulting absorbance data with the action spectrum for the in vivo Persistent Pigment Darkening (PPD) endpoint to provide an in vitro UVA protection factor (UVAPF) which is correlated with an in vivo measure. This method has been published as a COLIPA guideline, used currently in European geographies for testing and labelling sunscreen products. This article summarizes two 'ring' studies, involving eight separate testing laboratories, which both defined critical parameters for the method and validated it. In Ring Study 1, eight laboratories tested the in vitro UV transmission of a total of 24 sunscreens and, from the data, a unit dose of UVA (D(0) of 1.2 J cm(-2)) was defined to provide a single irradiation step which, by taking into account potential sunscreen photo-instability, gave the closest agreement with in vivo UVAPF values. In Ring Study 2, eight laboratories tested the in vitro UV transmission of a total of 13 sunscreens using this single irradiation step and established a very good correlation (r(2) = 0.83; slope = 0.84, P < 0.0001) between resulting in vitro UVAPF values and corresponding values derived from the in vivo PPD method. This new method, therefore, can be used to provide a reliable in vitro metric to describe and label UVA efficacy in sunscreen products, in line with the EU Commission recommendation 2006/247/EC.

Influence of applied quantity of sunscreen products on the sun protection factor--a multicenter study organized by the DGK Task Force Sun Protection.

It is often debated that the protection against solar-induced erythema under real conditions is dependent upon the amount of sunscreen applied. It is believed that when too little is applied a lower sun protection than indicated on the label will result. The aim of this study was to quantify this effect. In this multicenter study, the influence of three different amounts (0.5, 1.0, 2.0 mg/cm(2)) of three commercial sunscreen products in three reliable test centers was investigated according to the test protocol of The International Sun Protection Factor Test Method. The main result was a linear dependence of the SPF on the quantity applied. Taking into consideration the volunteer-specific variations, an exponential dependence of confidence interval of the in vivo SPF and amount applied was found. The highest amount applied (2.0 mg/cm(2)) was linked to the lowest confidence intervals. Thus, from the point of view of producing reliable and reproducible in vivo results under laboratory conditions, the recommendation of this multicenter study is an application quantity of 2.0 mg/cm(2).

Induction of the photoaging-associated mitochondrial common deletion in vivo in normal human skin.

Mutations of mitochondrial (mt) DNA such as the 4977 base-pair large-scale deletion, also called common deletion, are increased in photoaged skin. Direct evidence for their induction by chronic exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation in vivo in human skin has remained elusive however. Furthermore, their fate after induction is unclear. Previously unirradiated skin of 52 normal human individuals was repetitively exposed to physiological doses of UVA light. Skin and blood specimens were investigated for the presence of mtDNA mutations employing semiquantitative nested PCR, as well as real-time PCR, after 2 weeks of UV exposure and the content of the common deletion was followed up for up to 16 mo after cessation of irradiation. As assessed by both methods, repetitive UV exposure led to an approximately 40% increase in the levels of the common deletion in normal human skin. The majority of deletions were detectable in the dermis also showing the biggest increase, whereas in the epidermis only residual levels and no increase were found. Nine individuals were examined up to 16 mo after cessation of UV exposure and some showed accumulation up to 32-fold. Thus, mtDNA mutations are induced in the human skin by repetitive UV exposure. In addition, these mutations seem to represent long-term in-vivo biomarkers for actinic damage in the human skin.

The influence of pre-irradiation on the predictability of in vivo UVA protection with a new in vitro method.

BACKGROUND/PURPOSE: UVA protection of sunscreen formulations is becoming increasingly important especially because of recent investigations on the long-term skin damage associated with UVA light. The development of a new in vitro method to measure UVA protection performance made it possible to predict reliably the in vivo UVA protection performance of representative sunscreen formulations found presently in the European and US market (1). This study was performed in order to determine the applicability of the method developed by Wendel et al. (1) to photostable and photolabile filter combinations and in order to measure the influence of sample pre-irradiation on predicting the in vivo performance. This was done by subjecting six photostable and six photolabile filter combinations to a standard irradiation. Then the in vitro UVA protection afforded by each combination was measured and compared with the persistent pigment darkening (PPD) values determined in vivo. RESULTS: The results clearly showed that pre-irradiation does not affect the in vitro PPD factor of the photostable and photolabile samples in the same way. Almost identical values were determined for the stable filter combinations with and without pre-irradiation, whereas distinct reductions in the in vitro factors by as much as 93% were observed after irradiation in the group of less stable filter combinations. Comparison of the in vivo and in vitro PPD factors showed that all 12 samples comprise a homogeneous distribution with identical factors before irradiation. After pre-irradiation only the factors for the six less stable products were selectively reduced. The correlation with the data determined on the skin was clearly poorer for these products after irradiation. CONCLUSION: Overall, the results showed that pre-irradiation should not to be used for the assessment of UVA protection using this method. Furthermore, it can be assumed that normalizing the in vitro absorbance curves to the labelled SPF of the sunscreen will adequately take into account the photochemical behaviour of UV filters on the skin during sun exposure.

Distribution of sunscreens on skin.

The effectiveness of sunscreens was originally achieved by incorporation of soluble organic UV absorbers such as cinnamates and others into cosmetic formulations. Determinations of the sun protection factor (SPF) of emulsions containing different organic UV absorbers clearly indicate that the efficacy depends on the absorption characteristics of each single UV filter substance. Nowadays, micronised pigments such as titanium dioxide or zinc oxide have also been found to be protective against harmful UV rays. Our investigations using optical and electron microscopy proved that neither surface characteristics, particle size nor shape of the micronised pigments result in any dermal absorption of this substance. Micronised titanium dioxide is solely deposited on the outermost surface of the stratum corneum and cannot be detected in deeper stratum corneum layers, the human epidermis and dermis.

A quick, practical test procedure to evaluate the performance of instruments used for in vitro UV protection measurements.

The in vitro determination of the UV protection of sunscreens is usually performed by means of transmission measurements with special photometers. Many different instruments are used. Besides numerous commercially available instruments, which are equipped by the manufacturer for the specific measurement, other modular instruments are used. We present here a quick and practical method to evaluate the performance of these instruments with respect to their measuring ranges and to compare the uniformity and reliability of the results obtained with these instruments.

The human stratum corneum layer: an effective barrier against dermal uptake of different forms of topically applied micronised titanium dioxide.

Electron microscopy visualisation and light microscopic investigations of three different application forms of titanium dioxide proved that neither surface characteristics, particle size nor shape of the micronised titanium dioxide result in any dermal absorption of this substance: Micronised titanium dioxide is solely deposited on the outermost surface of the stratum corneum and cannot be detected in deeper stratum corneum layers, the human epidermis and dermis.

In vitro testing to assess the UVA protection performance of sun care products.

The UVA protection delivered by sunscreens is an issue of increasing importance due to the increasing knowledge about UVA-induced skin damage. In Europe there is no officially accepted method available to determine the degree of UVA protection. Therefore, the objective of the present study was to design a protocol combining the merits of an in vitro model, which are simple and reproducible, with aspects known to be relevant from in vivo studies. The principle is: an UV-transparent support to which the test product is applied, a (pre)irradiation and a transmission measurement. Transpore(R) tape (standard support for SPF determinations) was found to be incompatible with many preparations on prolonged contact times. Roughened quartz was adopted as a suitable alternative. Transmission measurements on this support are not reliable with a layer of 2 mg cm(-2) (standard for SPF) due to detection limitations of spectrophotometers, hence a reduced layer of 0.75 mg cm(-2) was adopted. Overall, it is very difficult to apply products in a reproducible thin layer on appropriate substrates. As a consequence, absolute parameters derived from the transmission profile show relatively large dispersion, whereas relative parameters, such as critical wavelength lambda(c)[1] or UVA/UVB ratio are much less sensitive to unavoidable variations in layer thickness. An increase in deviations was observed when the samples were irradiated before measurement. It is crucial to control the output carefully (spectral distribution and even more importantly, irradiance and dose delivered) of the light source. By doing so and also taking into account the previous learning steps, a protocol was drafted and tested in a ringtest (four samples in six laboratories). The results are encouraging and show that if relative parameters (e.g. lambda(c), UVA/UVB ratio) are considered, the intra- as well as interlaboratory reproducibility is clearly better than can be obtained in vivo. In general, we describe a suitable method, which can be considered in any future official discussions about the methodology to determine UVA protection.

The Outermost Stratum Corneum Layer is an Effective Barrier Against Dermal Uptake of Topically Applied Micronized Titanium Dioxide.

In order to help clarify the controversially discussed dermal uptake properties of micronized titanium dioxide (TiO _ 2), we conducted extensive in vitro dermal absorption studies with 'Franz-type' diffusion cells on excised porcine skin. After biopsies and chemical fixation, the overall localization of TiO _ 2 in the skin was analyzed by means of transmission electron microscopy (TEM). The lateral and vertical distribution of TiO _ 2 within the stratum corneum (SC) was investigated by tape stripping and subsequent scanning electron microscopy (SEM) in combination with energy dispersive X-ray analysis (EDXA). TiO _ 2 was found exclusively on the outermost SC layer. The surface deposit, as displayed by TEM, featured clearly distinguishable agglomerates as well as single particles with a characteristic cubic shape and a primary particle size of about 20-50 nm. Concurrently, SEM/EDXA micrographs first showed an even distribution of TiO _ 2 on the skin surface. After 10-fold stripping, however, TiO _ 2 was found to be localized only in the furrows and not on the partially removed ridges of the skin surface. SEM/EDXA micrographs of the adhesive tape strips revealed a characteristic pattern of stripped material and free regions. This pattern was an imprint of the skin's topography. Hence, tape stripping initially removed TiO _ 2 and SC layers only from the ridges and not from the deeper furrows. Continued stripping increasingly yielded material from the deeper contours of the SC surface. TiO _ 2 was found only in traces in the upper part of the follicle without any evidence of uptake into the follicular epithelium. This indicates that there is not any relevant penetration via the follicular route. We conclude that due to the microtopography of the skin, the strip number normally does not reflect the SC layer number. Accordingly, tape stripping results should always be interpreted with care, especially in the case of topically applied particles, as even higher numbers of subsequent strips may still sample material from the outermost SC layer of the deeper furrows, which could be interpreted falsely as penetrated material. Our results clearly demonstrate that TiO _ 2 homogeneously and completely covers the outermost SC layer. It is neither delivered to the SC nor to the underlying skin layers when applied topically to porcine skin in vitro in the cosmetic vehicle used here. These findings underscore the safety of this micronized inorganic UV filter.

Consequences for sun protection factors when solar simulator spectra deviate from the spectrum of the sun.

Synopsis The sun protection factor (SPF) of two products, one with an expected SPF of 4 and another with an expected SPF of 15 were determined, using two solar simulators: Multiport Solar UV Simulator (xenon, Solar Light, Philadelphia, PA, USA), and Supersun 5000 (metal halide, Mutzhas, Munich, Germany). The mean SPFs using the Multiport were: 4.8 for the low SPF product and 19.4 for the high SPF one. The results using the Supersun were lower: 2.6 for the low SPF product and 7.2 for the high SPF one. Relative emission spectra of the two sources were recorded using a fluorescence spectrophotometer in bioluminescence mode. Efficacy spectra were calculated and compared with the corresponding spectrum of natural sunlight. It was evident that the spectral power of the xenon source is too high in the UVB, leading to overestimation of SPFs, whereas the Supersun irradiator emits too much in the UVA, resulting in too low SPFs. Heat effects and photodegradation of UV filters are discussed as further possible reasons for the discrepancies between the experimentally determined SPFs. Our results confirm a recent publication about theoretical SPFs, calculated with emission spectra of a xenon source and spectra of the sun at different elevation angles, where the authors provide evidence that in natural sunlight the contribution of UVA to total UV radiation is twice as high as in a xenon source. This may contribute to an understanding of why sunscreens tested according to the FDA method (xenon sources) often yield higher SPFs than those obtained from European testing procedures.

Time course of lectin and storage protein biosynthesis in developing pea (Pisum sativum) seeds.

Lectins and storage proteins from pea (Pisum sativum) and other Leguminosae seeds interact in vitro. In order to evaluate whether this relationship may be important also in vivo, the time course of biosynthesis of these proteins in developing pea seeds was followed. The proteins appear in the following temporal order: vicilin-lectin-convicilin-legumin. The time course of protein synthesis was also followed by the subcellular morphological changes occurring simultaneously. The appearance of vicilin coincides with the formation of regularly shaped protein globules within the vacuole. Immediately after the start of lectin synthesis, these globules flatten and begin to adhere to the inner membrane surface of the vacuole. Legumin appears at a time when the vacuoles already have largely disappeared in favour of smaller vesicles which eventually develop into protein bodies. These results together with previous findings are consistent with the view that one of the biological functions of the lectin may consist in serving as a link between vicilin and the inner face of the vacuole membrane.